| |
Troubleshooting
A
Type
Disconnect
the wires from the dynamo.
Connect
a voltmeter. one lead to D, the other to chassis (range dc 20 v)
Start
the engine, but keep it down in fast idle.
Checking
the remanence
It
should be possible to measure a voltage of 1 to 2 volts, this is due to the residual
magnetism left in the dynamo. Without the remanence, the dynamo will not be able
to start.
|
|
|
The
remanence can be lost by prolonged inactivity, or if the dynamo has been
separated for renovation.
You
can magnetize the dynamo by connecting D to the battery for a second or two,
eventually connect F two chassis.
Testing
the dynamo
With
the engine at high idle, connect F to chassis with a piece of wire, voltage
should show 6 - 10 volt (it can get much higher, depending of revs. This
should not be exaggerated, the dynamo is unregulated and can be damaged. If only
measuring 1 -2 volt, the field coil may be interrupted.
|
A
12 V bulb can be used instead of the voltmeter, but it is first to be
connected when the F to chassis connection has been established, and the
engine started. The initial power is so weak that the bulb would
"eat" it, and prevent the dynamo from starting.
|
|
The
motor method
Dynamo
dismounted
This
method is not entirely safe, but give a indication of whether the dynamo works.
Connect
F to chassis with a piece of wire. Connect D to the battery. Other side of
battery to be connected to dynamo chassis.
Remember
to to use the correct polarity, + or - to chassis.
The
dynamo should run like an electromotor, and in the direction it is normally
pulled. Change of direction is done by switching the wires for the field coil.
I
above is OK. you should show interest for the wiring and the control box.
Checking
the control box
With
the dynamo mounted and the wiring connected, and a fully charged battery.
Connect a voltmeter, range 20 V dc, one lead to A, the other to F.
|
You
should measure something like:
0
- 1,5 V at idle, going up to
5
- 6 V at high idle, for then to fall to
1,5
- 2 V at high revs.
|
|
|
|
|
|